Black Sea Region

Archaeological excavations from the early Bronze Age settlements at Ikiztepe in Samsun Province have uncovered evidence of the region's earliest inhabitants. The Hittites, Miletians, Phrygians and, according to Homer, the Amazons all colonized parts of the coast. Alexander the Great in his world conquest also brought the region under his sovereignty. Eventually, it was incorporated into the Roman and then the Byzantine Empire. The 15th century saw the greater part of the area come under the Ottoman rue of Sultan Mehmet II. The Black Sea is easily accessible to tourists and provides a wide range of hotels and restaurants at a variety of prices.

THE WESTERN BLACK SEA COAST

The Yildiz (Istranca) Mountains bisect the province of Kirklareli. Lush mountainous landscape dotted with quaint houses transport you to an idyllic and tranquil reverie. In the city of Kirklareli the oldest mosque is the Hizirbey Mosque, built in 1383. The mosque complex includes a bazaar. Nearby stands a hamam (bath) also built under the patronage of Hizir Bey. The 14th-century Kirklar Memorial with its impressive 18 columns stands on Kirklar Hill honoring the site where 40 soldiers lost their lives when the Ottomans conquered this area under the command of Murat I. The Archaeology Museum exhibits finds from local excavations.

Inland, between Ankara and Istanbul, is Bolu (262 km from Istanbul and 192 km from Ankara), an important provincial center with an impressive 14th century Ulu Mosque and modern thermal facilities close at hand. The Bolu Archaeology and Ethnography Museum has artifacts from the Hittite, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman periods. Southwest of Bolu is the popular and relaxing Lake Abant resort, set in lovely alpine surroundings at an altitude of 1,500 meters. Istanbul dwellers often escape to the lake for a weekend of fresh air and exercise.

Eregli whose ancient name was Heraklea ad Pontus, stands on a hill adjacent to a Byzantine castle. In the spring the aroma of strawberries, some of the sweetest grown in Turkey, fills the air, making a visit a mouthwatering experience. Eregli derives its name from the mythological demi-god, Hercules, who, in the 11th century caught the three-headed dog, Cerberus, guardian of the gates of hell. According to Xenophon, Cerberus resided in the cave Cehennemagzi (Entrance to Hell), outside of Eregli near Kavakderesi.

Zonguldak is a major center of coal production and an important Black Sea port. The scenic road on the east side of town leads to the areas of Kopuz and Uzunkum, where tea gardens and restaurants beckon tourists to spend a leisurely afternoon. Connoisseurs of fine handcrafted wood, travel to Devrek, a pretty town, 50 km southeast of Zonguldak, to purchase its renowned wooden canes. Karabuk, situated 10 km southeast of Safranbolu is the most important industrial center in Turkey, known for its iron and steel industry. Not far from Karabuk lies the charming park of Camlik, the perfect place for rest and relaxation. The entire area is dotted with pine forests and there is a lovely tea garden and restaurant in a nice place to enjoy nature.

Also inland and further to the east is charming Safranbolu. Step back in time in the lovely "old world" style of the town to see some of the most beautiful traditional old houses, unique in Turkey for their outstanding design and construction. The most interesting of these include: Kaymakamlar House, Aygiroglu House, and Asmazlar Havuzlu Konak which has been restored and is now used as a hotel operated by the Turkish Touring Automobile Club. The Mektepciler House is also noteworthy as is the Haci Memisler House.

Amasra (17 km from Bartin), one of the most beautiful towns on the Black Sea coast, was called Sesamos in ancient times, when it was founded by the Miletians in the sixth century B.C. It stands on a peninsula made by two inlets. The eastern side enjoys a reputation for good swimming. On a rocky promontory rise the ramparts of a Byzantine citadel, inside of which is an old church, now the Fatih Mosque. The necropolis dates from the Roman period. Remnants from Amasra's entire history are displayed in the Archaeology Museum. You can purchase a lovely hand carved wooden souvenir on Cekiciler street. Continuing eastward along the coast, you arrive at Cakraz (15 km east of Amasra) a typical fishing village with excellent beaches, friendly accommodation and fine restaurants. The winding road between Cakraz and Inebolu has steep mountainsides and offers a spectacular panoramic view.

Beyond Cakraz is Kurucasile, a town known for its fishing boat manufacturing. Cide, 28 km farther, has good hotels and a pleasant beach, providing comfort and relaxation. Gideros Bay will make you think a dream has come true. Inebolu ( 100 km east of Cide) is a typical Black Sea town set in lush greenery displaying many fine examples of traditional Turkish architecture. East of Inebolu is Abana, another good holiday center. Situated inland amid beautiful forests, the provincial center of Kastamonu (90 km south of Inebolu) also dasts several important monuments: the 12th-century Byzantine castle, the 13th-century Atabey Mosque and the Ibni Neccar Mosque of 1356.

Other important monuments include the 13th-century Alaeddin Mosque and the Alaiye Medrese. Excellent fish restaurants along the charming fisherman's wharf serve tasty meals while brightly colored boats bobbing in the water complete the picturesque setting. Sinop is also known for its traditional nautical wooden carvings. Seaside hotels and holiday villages provide accommodation in all price ranges.

Hazelnut production centers around Ordu and every September the town hosts the Golden Hazelnut Festival. Be sure to sample the delicious chocolate nut candy. It is worth spending some time at an 18th-century church, 2 km of town, and the pretty beach of Guzelyali is worth visiting. 58 km further south, at an altitude of 1,250 meters, lies the yayla (plateau) of Cambasi offering beautiful mountain views. The yayla of Keyfalan, at 2,000 meters, is another popular summer destination for local residents.

The ruins of a Byzantine fortress offer a wonderful panorama of Giresun. It was from this city, ancient Cerasos, that the Roman general Lucullus exported the first cherry trees to Europe. An 18th century church (now a museum) makes a short visit worthwhile. Outside of town, Giresun Adasi (Giresun Island) is said to have once belonged to the Amazons. A ruined temple supports this theory. The Aksu Art and Culture Festival is a yearly event in May. To get off the beaten track, take an excursion to the high mountain yaylas of Bektas or Kumbet.

Between Giresun and Trabzon, are the quaint coastal towns of Kesap, Tirebolu, Gorele, Vakfikebir and Akcaabat squeezed between wooded mountains and the Black Sea waters. Stop at Gorele for delicious, submarine-shaped meat and cheese 'pitas', at Vakfikebir for the best butter and at Akcaabat to sample the best kofte (meat rolls). Trabzon, the major city of the region, was founded in the 7th century B.C. by Miletian colonists, and was later at the center of the Comnene Empire established after the fall of Byzantine Istanbul. The exiled Byzantine court ruled until 1461 when the Ottomans conquered the area. The jewel of Trabzon's monuments is the restored 13th-century Byzantine church, used for centuries as a mosque and now as the Ayasofya Museum.

Altindere National Park provides a magnificent setting for the 14th century Sumela Monastery, perched high on a cliff face 270 meters above a deep gorge. Surrounded by the ruins of the monks' quarters, is a church covered inside and out with brilliant frescoes. Southeast of Trabzon is lake Uzungol, a lovely alpine lake surrounded by mountains and meadows, excellent for camping, hiking and fishing. The restaurants there also make it the best place for eating river trout. Gumushane (88 km east of Trabzon), on the ancient trade route between Trabzon and Iran was once of considerable importance. Many elegant buildings still remain. Set amid fruit groves and wild roses, the town is a natural stopping point between Trabzon and Erzurum. Take the opportunity to try the local rosehip syrup and marmalade.

Bayburt (77 km from Gumushane), is situated on the banks of the Coruh River and lies on what was once known as the Silk Road. Marco Polo and the inveterate Turkish traveler Evliya Celebi both passed through this city. The remains of a Byzantine castle, as well as major mosques, Turkish baths and fascinating carved tombstones are among the significant sites. Two of the most important monuments in Bayburt are Ulu Mosque (18th century) and the Clock Tower in the city center which dates from the republican period. Also worth seeing are the twin mausoleums of Sehit Osman and his sister which are situated on the hillsides at the southern entrance to the city. Osman Park on the Coruh River has wonderful scenery and is a lovely place to relax.

Hopa an attractive town at the foot of a forested mountain, is the last port before the Turkish-Georgian border. The international boundary actually divides the village of Sarp. 27 km northeast of the town of Borcka on the way to Artvin there is the wonderful alpine lake of Karagol, with various pine trees, as well as other flora and fauna. The road to Artvin traverses the Cankurtaran mountain pass, where verdant landscape changes to barren rocks. Hatilla Valley National Park, about 25 km in length, is 10 km from Artvin, between the confluence of the Coruh River and the Hatilla stream in the east, and Mt. Nathali (2,923 m) in the west. Canyons with sheer cliffs and vertical drops can be seen throughout the park. Both Mediterranean and Black Sea flora flourish together in the park along with bears, deer, wolves, foxes and eagles. Special houses on top of wooden stilts are home to the park bees who produce the famous regional honey.

A winding drive midway up a mountainside takes you to Artvin, the capital of the province. At the foot of the escarpment, a ruined 16th-century castle crowns a rocky outcrop. Artvin is a charming city with beautiful old Turkish houses, typical of the region. The area's mild climate makes summer visits delightfully refreshing and every June, crowds of tourists, as well as brightly-clad locals, throng to the Kafkasor festival, where the spectacle of fighting bulls highlights the celebration. The adventurous might like to attempt white-water rafting on the wild, romantic Coruh river.

During the Middle Ages the Artvin area came under Georgian sovereignty, which makes it the best place for touring remains of the Georgian past. Its wonderfully scenic roads lead to the ruined churches and settlements that stand as a legacy of this period. The best-preserved of these are at Barhal and Ishan, in the majestic Kackar Mountains. Barhal also offers some of the best country horseback riding. Several other churches in Bagbasi and Camliyamac are just off the road to Erzurum, passing by the Tortum Waterfalls and the pristine Tortum Lake. Other Georgian churches and settlements near Yusufeli are Dortkilise, Koprugoren, and Tekkale. Yusufeli itself boasts wonderful possibilities for nature lovers and hiking at 4000 meters. East of Artvin is the former Georgian capital Ardanuc, with its famous castle, which overlooks the longest canyon in the region.

55 km east of Artvin is Savsat, an alpine village surrounded by meadows of wild flowers and butterflies, rushing streams and quaint chalets. The local womens' organization has established a training center for weaving in an attempt to keep the indigenous carpet and kilim traditions alive. Karagol - Sahara National Park, 17 km from Savsat on the way to Ardahan, has one of the most beautiful Karagol alpine lakes as well as the widely-known Sahara plateau. The lake is 45 km northeast of Savsat via Velikoy Village, another typical authentic village. The area around the lake is covered with a variety of pine trees and also has picnic facilities.